Editor's note: If you read the Dear Slice letter yesterday from homeslice Lance R. asking for New York pizza-eating advice, you'll remember he mentioned a piece he wrote for us about Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix. I forgot to run it when he sent it in. But here it is. No worse for the delay, I might add. Lance, sorry about spacing this; I'm an asshat. —The Mgmt.
Sorry about the quality of the pics, I was too giddy about the food to focus. Anyway, here's the rundown. My friend Mat and I are in the same pizza obsession club with you, but let us first state our credentials. Together, we've tried 30 or so pizza places in Los Angeles where we live (Village Pizza on Larchmont and Mozza are the current title holders). I've done a lot of Chicago pizza, and he grew up in NY and recently went to Italy (and had the best pie of his life). After hearing all this Bianco/Mozza talk from Ed Levine and others, we decided we needed to know the truth for ourselves.
So we decided to compare them. We started with a decent breakfast that would tide us over until 5 p.m., then headed to the airport for a 12:45 p.m. flight from LAX to Phoenix. We arrived at 2 p.m. and took a cab to Pizzeria Bianco. Three hours later we were inside. Chris Bianco was working behind his counter with a focused look (or scowl, depending on how you see it) on his face that would immediately break into a smile the second he began to talk to a customer. We ordered two pizzas for appetizers, two for the main course.
"What does DJ Bubbles think of the pizza at Pizzeria Bianco? Short answer: It is unquestionably great."
Above: The Margherita from Pizzeria Bianco—mozzarella rich and buttery, sauce sweet and tangy, basil fresh and evenly spread, and crust crisp yet soft.
As usual, I've taken my sweet-ass time between articles, and I know that has been a cause of concern for some of you out there looking for the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth. Well, I think you may be in luck, because I think I've found it—and it ain't in New York City, suckas!
No, it may actually exist in the great American Southwest, in a little place called Phoenix. Yes, many of you are on to me and realize that I'm talking about none other than my main man, Chris Bianco and his eponymous restaurant, Pizzeria Bianco, where locals and tourists gladly wait hours in line for their own slice of heaven. While it is true that Chris is one of my new main men (think Ali G. interviewing an important U.S. dignitary: "I'm 'ere with none otha than my main man, Buzz Aldrin!"), it is worth mentioning that I have also designated the dude as one of my new Pizza Yodas (or PY; pronounced PIE). A PY is a counselor or learned man who has inspired, educated, or enriched my walk with Pizza. I have returned to New York feeling all of these things, and I have Chris to thank for that. Yes, the force is strong in me at the moment. It is my hope that, after you finish reading this article, it will be strong in you, too. Let us continue.
For as much as I (privately) grumble about the internet, I love it for stuff like this ...
About 4:10 p.m. ET, I have the following IM exchange with my homeslice Philip G., who appears in the video above, capturing the first-ever videopizza upskirt at Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix on his visit there:
PGTips:bianco was just on oprah NYCSlice: wha? NYCSlice: no way NYCSlice: on the pizza show?
Posted by Adam Kuban, November 27, 2007 at 9:00 AM
Editor's note: Digging into the Slice mailbag, we find this dispatch from the (long) front lines at Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix. —The Mgmt.
Line, line. Everywhere a line.
I am a longtime reader of your blog and fellow pizza connoisseur. I wanted to report on my recent experience at Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix.
My parents recently relocated to Phoenix after living in New York and then New Jersey for pretty much their entire lives. Our family has been accustomed to eating some of the nation's best pizza, (Di Fara, Grimaldi's, Patsy's, DeLorenzo's Tomato Pies in Trenton, New Jersey). When we read the reviews here about Chris Bianco and his pizza , we planned an evening out to try these locally famous pies.
"It hurts me, because they act as if I'm trying to get something over on them. I wish I had the nerve to charge $50, because that's what it's worth." —Anthony Mangieri
The pies there inspired him to talk to some of the acknowledged masters of pizza: Anthony Mangieri (Una Pizza Napoletana, New York), Chris Bianco (Pizzeria Bianco, Phoenix), and Nancy Silverton (Mozza).
Not only that, but readers hungry for San Francisco pies will be pleased to note that Mr. Bauer is launching "Pizza Friday" on his blog; it promises to be a "multimedia feature" that will document his quest to find the Bay Area's best pizzas.
Some choice excerpts from the pizza feature, after the jump.
Editor's note: Ladies and gents, allow me to introduce a new voice here at Slice: Robyn Lee. You may already be familiar with Robyn from her blog The Girl Who Ate Everything. She also works with me at Serious Eats, which is how she found her way to posting on Slice. Anyway, she recently visited Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix. Here's her take. —The Mgmt.
Best. Pizza. Ever.
That's what I was expecting from Pizzeria Bianco, which is known for having, well, the best pizza ever. In the U.S., at least. Maybe even in the world. But I can't vouch for that since I haven't eaten all the pizza in the world (although I'd be happy to make that a lifelong goal).
What I can say is that out of all the pizza I've ever eaten, Chris Bianco's may have been the best I've ever had the pleasure of sending through my digestive system. I only hesitate because I don't know if it was the pizza alone or a combination of things (the warm atmosphere and friendly company) that resulted in a night of explosive happiness derived from stuffing my face with slice after slice. Maybe it was the best pizza and the best pizza-eating experience. My mind is still a little fuzzy from the happiness hangover.
Slice reader Philip G. visited Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix last week and came away with a bellyful of what sounds like great pizza, and, I assume, memories to last a lifetime. He sent along his pix and this great video—the first instance of a motion-picture pizza upskirt. Thanks, Philip!
You should have noticed in that video that Philip is wearing the "I Slice NY" shirt. W00t! And if you didn't, here's a pic of him and the man himself, Chris Bianco:
Bon Appétit magazine, in conjunction with the Food Network, went across the country looking for the best pizza, hamburgers, ribs, fried chicken, and tacos. Three finalists in each category are written up in the September issue of the magazine (the blurbs are rather generic-sounding), and the winner is going to be announced on a Food Network special hosted by Alton Brown August 18.
What isn't clear to me after reading about their search is the methodology they used. What criteria did they use in each category? How did they go about finding and then eating at the best places in each category? Did at least one or more persons eat at all three finalists in a given week?
Methodology is important when it comes to determining ultimate pizza, hamburger, rib, fried chicken, and taco superiority. The "best" is a big, big, claim that shouldn't—and can't —be taken lightly. I'll try to find out their methodology and report back.
In the meantime, the only category I have eaten in all three finalists is pizza. The three they chose, Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix, Pizzeria Mozza in Los Angeles, and Di Fara in Brooklyn, are certainly worthy contenders, although it is difficult to compare Mozza and Bianco, where the pizza (whole pies only) is made in wood-burning ovens utilizing the best, mostly house-made ingredients and sophisticated toppings, and Di Fara, where Dom DeMarco uses a conventional gas pizza oven and sells slices made with high-quality store-bought cheese and sausage.
I thought the place was really cool. It's kind of just off downtown, right near where the Diamondbacks play. As your photo shows, it's a pretty small place, but they own a stand-alone bar next door (Bar Bianco) where you can wait. And it's like drinking in someone's house. They also have benches and stuff outside where you can sit. A very relaxing, homey set-up. I drank this beer from Tempe, Arizona, called Hop Knot. The stuff is so strong it's like I had a kind bud lodged in my trachea.
The pizza is definitely worth the wait. You just have to plan things out. Before heading to the bar, I wandered around downtown Phoenix, which has more construction going on than Dubai. The two hours really flew by, but you can probably chalk that one up to jet lag or my enjoyment of the warm weather.
We ordered the pizza Margherita, and this nonsauce thing called the Rosa, which has a couple cheeses, red onions, olive oil, and these Arizona pistachios (WTF?). Very nice. I would definitely put it up there with anything I've had in New York City. But was it better. The best? I don't freakin' know. I was trying to figure that out. I decided that I still have to go to with Patsy's. I guess it's like one of those drug things when someone says their first line was the best and nothing else ever lived up to it. (I've always wondered—do they mean the first one ever or just of the night?) Anyway, when you're a junky, it's hard to differentiate, especially when everything you're dealing with is such high quality.
By the way, I also went to Pink Taco in Scottsdale. It was like eating in a Juicy Couture store.
Posted by Adam Kuban, February 15, 2007 at 9:47 PM
It's been a while since we've heard from Slice roving reporter E-Rock, so I was surprised and then jealous to get a voicemail from the dude. He's apparently out in Phoenix, and he phoned from the line at the legendary Pizzeria Bianco. [Warning: As is the case in most things associated with E-Rock, questionable language is involved.]
The previous post about Ed Levine's top pizza picks drew some emailed and IMed responses that the choices were mostly all coastal and that there were no Chicago joints on it whatsoever. Well, here's a list that ran earlier this month in USA Today. In it, Jeff Ruby, coauthor of Everybody Loves Pizza (along with Penny Pollack), gives the paper his and Ms. Pollack's top spots:
Metro Pizza [four locations, Las Vegas NV; metropizza.com]
"The pizza menu at this gourmet oasis in the desert reads like a map of regional flavors. With grilled shrimp on the New Orleans, barbecued chicken atop the Memphis and pineapple on the Honolulu, there's something for everybody...."
The Cheese Board Pizza Collective [1512 Shattuck Avenue, Berkeley CA 94709; map]
" 'The Cheese Board is a collective, owned by its members, that brings sustainable agriculture to the pizza table,' Ruby says. Each day the menu, featuring a single sourdough vegetarian pizza, is decided collectively by the group...."
Posted by Adam Kuban, October 30, 2006 at 11:48 AM
Pity poor Ed Levine. When his workday doesn't involve ordering one of each doughnut at a well-regarded New York City doughnuttery, he gets to eat pizza from some of the country's best pizzerias and write about it for Details magazine. His findings cover some familiar ground to readers of Slice and of Mr. Levine's 2005 book PIzza: A Slice of Heaven, but there are some new entries to be savored.
Pizzeria Bianco [623 East Adams Street, Phoenix AZ 85004; map]
"The sauce tastes like a distillation of the ripest tomatoes."
Di Fara[1424 Avenue J, Brooklyn NY 11230; map]
"... a Di Fara slice has a one-of-a-kind flavor."
Totonno's [1524 Neptune Ave., Brooklyn NY 11224; map]
"Order the white pie, made with ricotta, mozzarella, and enough fresh garlic to ward off a roomful of vampires."
From a nice profile of Phoenix pizzaiolo Chris Bianco in the Arizona Republic today:
The faithful and the curious, the foodies and the tourists, the hungry, the whiny and the just plain crazy come to Pizzeria Bianco in downtown Phoenix, and settle into the outdoor picnic tables insanely early, even in 113-degree heat, eyeing each other with a mix of glee and gloating. For sure, they're going to get tables tonight.
They will shovel into their grateful mouths wood-roasted vegetables just barely picked, and fresh mozzarella cheese that Bianco coaxed from curd into milky wonder that morning. They'll dunk fire-tinged bread in local olive oil and sip wine until their teeth are plummy. When the pizza comes, it might be the Biancoverde, grassy with arugula, or the Wiseguy, all smoky and oniony, sausage-laden and divine. This is the best pizza in the nation, a New York Times food writer sighed in 2004. Nay, the best pizza in the world, crowed Vogue's Jeffrey Steingarten that year.
Be sure to click through for the sidebar, "Queue tips for fans of Pizzeria Bianco."
Posted by Adam Kuban, December 14, 2005 at 1:00 PM
Speaking of Pizzeria Bianco, back in November, reader Alex K. sent Slice some photos of the place on a recent trip out there. Alex probably didn't think we'd ever use these, but here they are. Of Pizzeria Bianco, he said:
Some people claim this is the best pizza in the U.S. It is very good, but not No. 1. The crowd lines up daily at least an hour before opening, and by the time the doors open, the entire place is full with more still waiting. Pictures include: The Wiseguy (right): Wood-roasted onion, house-smoked mozzarella, fennel sausage. A crowd favorite, but not my taste. From an objective point of view, this smokey combo delivers without being too overwhelming.
The Margherita (above): Tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella, basil. Really nice, and a pie that lets the ingredients speak for themselves. Simplicity at its best. Crust is really crispy yet with just the right chew.
Spiedini (above): Italian fontina wrapped in prosciutto di Parma, served warm. This was amazing and one of the best appetizers I have had.
And here's a pic from Bar Bianco (below), the adjacent watering hole serving really nice wines. If you are lucky, like me, you start and finish there.
Lucky, indeed. You've had the chance to eat at Bianco's place, Alex, while Slice and its readers are left salivating at the photos. Thanks for the peek.
Finding Patsy Grimaldi's name on a pizzeria out in Phoenix, amid all that sun and desert, is weird. Anyone who knows Patsy can only picture his coal-fired pizza oven glowing in the long shadows of the Brooklyn Bridge's eastern arch, with the patient lines of hungry customers outside and a firm no-delivery policy inside (except in the old days when Frank Sinatra ordered out from the Waldorf-Astoria or sent a plane from Los Angeles for two score of Patsy's pies). "I'm retired now," explains Patsy. "But franchised, kind of."
It's not like he's Brooklyn's answer to Colonel Sanders. So far there are just a precious few other Grimaldis out there and Patsy says he insists on personally training this new generation to make pies the way his late uncle, Patsy Lancieri, taught him 60 years ago in Harlem - with the special dough recipe and only fresh ingredients from Italy, of course, but always in an oven built the old way from brick and fired the old way by coal, not by gas as most modern pizzeria ovens are.
"Fifty years ago, 100 years ago, that's all they had in the city was coal ovens," Patsy says, proud to be handing on his retro-coal technique to Phoenix. By his account, the coal-brick approach produces far more heat (800 degrees plus) than gas, and thereby fierce-to-subtle hot spots of artistry to make the pie bubble, crisp and lightly char. "Far better flavor," Patsy assures, particularly for those who had their first taste of pizza after World War II, when soldiers came home with tales of discovering it in Italy. Pizza has since become a ubiquitous industry in America with flavors running from rare ambrosia to mall-rat flannel. It inevitably created a connoisseur craving for the real deal, the sort of pie that perennially has Grimaldi's rated among New York's best. "Everybody's advertising 'brick-oven,' but not with the coal," Patsy cautions. "These guys know nothing about pizza."
A nice story in the Times by one of our favorte food writers, Ed Levine. Levine visits Chris Bianco in Phoenix. Bianco is a Bronx native who moved to the Valley of the Sun and worked his way to crafting what Levine says "might be the best pizza in America."
What makes the pizza so good? Levine says it better than we can (primarily because we've never been):
His crust is simultaneously thick and thin, puffy and crisp on the outside and softer and chewy on the inside, with hole structure like great bread. His mozzarella, which he and his staff make every morning, is creamy and slightly tart. The sauce tastes like the ripest tomatoes in concentrated form. His sausage tastes of fennel and pork, with just the right meat-to-fat ratio.
The Rosa, one of six pizzas, is made with red onion, Parmigiano-Reggiano, rosemary and Arizona pistachios, and is as multilayered and intense as Mr. Bianco himself. The Wiseguy pie has smoked mozzarella (he smokes it every morning in his wood-burning oven over pecan wood), roasted onions and fennel sausage.
My first bite of the Wiseguy melted in my mouth, as all great pizza does. The elements blended like a great jazz rhythm section.
Make their own mozz daily?! Not only that, but they grow their own herbs on premises. My word.
Lucky for Slice, editor and publisher Adam K.'s sister recently moved there. When we visit her, we'll also stop by Bianco and the Grimaldi's shop. Until then, we can only encourage the sis to go there herself. (And take a few pictures while you're there!)
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Michael Bauer, the food critic of the San Francisco Chronicle, 
The previous post about 
A nice story in the 
